French

Recipe#8477

Title: Flavoured Vinegars

  From "The French Farmhouse Kitchen", Eileen Reece, Exeter Books,

1984. ISBN 0-671-06542-4

Posted by Stephen Ceideberg; May 13 1993.


Flavoured Vinegars

----------------FOR EACH 1 LITRE WINE BOTTLE---------------------

1 l (1 3/4 pints) plain wine

-vinegar

4 Or 5 shallots, peeled and

-slightly crushed, threaded

-on fine string or

4 Cloves garlic, peeled and

-slightly crushed or

2 tb Mustard seed or

1 Long leafy branch tarragon

-twice the length of the

-bottle

Flavoured wine vinegar has been an important ingredient in French

cooking since medieval times when vinegar was essential in order to

keep meat edible in warm weather.

In the 13th century, street vendors were granted the right to cry

their wares in the thoroughfares of Paris. These cries soon became

famous, and the vinegar sellers even rolled their casks through the

narrow streets crying 'Garlic and mustard vinegars, herb vinegar... '

'Vinaigres, bons et biaux.'

They also sold verjus, the sieved juice of unripe grapes which serves

to sharpen the flavour of many cooked dishes in the same way that

vinegar does. It is still used in some country places and provides a

means of using up green grapes unfit for any other purpose.

All farm kitchens have an earthenware vinegar barrel. It constitutes

another of the many country economies. After the grape harvest, a

certain quantity of either red or white wine is reserved and poured

into the barrel over a liquid fungus or mere de vinaigre which turns

it into vinegar. The quantity drawn off each day is replaced by

emptying the remains of the wine bottles into the barrel.

When herbs are most pungent, just before flowering, they are cut and

used to aromatize some of the vinegar drawn off. It is then bottled

and used for flavouring.

Owning a vinegar barrel is a privilege of which few English kitchens

can boast but plain wine vinegar sold in the multiple chemists' shops

can be used effectively with home-grown herbs to produce fine vinegar

at much less cost than that prepared commercially.

FLAVOURED VINEGAR:

Collect the number of bottles necessary, with sound corks to fit.

Wash the bottles in hot soapy water, rinse first in very hot water

then in cold, drain, dry and heat in a slow oven. Scald the corks in

boiling water.

Pour the vinegar into an enamel-lined or stainless steel pan and over

a low temperature bring slowly to blood heat. It should be quite

warm to the touch of a knuckle joint, no more. Add shallots, garlic,

mustard seed or tarragon to the warm bottles. (If using tarragon,

this should be bent double and pushed down the neck of the bottle.)

Fill up with warm vinegar, cork down tightly, and place on a sunny

window sill to mature for 6 weeks before use.

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